InsideLineMC Brian's Blog

Torres del Paine — Patagonia 2024

In the morning I felt too sick to go on the hike along Lago Grey, but Julie went and saw a woodpecker. They hiked across one of the moraines in front of the lake and it was windy, but the rain stopped shortly after they started walking. Afterwards they hiked a little way up the hill to a lookout.

Windy Morning Hike - Lago Grey, Torres del Paine N.P.
Windy Morning Hike - Lago Grey, Torres del Paine N.P.

At noon we got box lunches to eat while riding the bus to a hike. While Torres del Paine is an amazing National Park, there are logistical problems to visiting it: there are only a few gravel roads to access a large area, and there are only one or two hotels and a few camping areas in or near the Park. This meant every activity from our Hotel Lago Grey base involved a bus ride of at least one bumpy hour. Fortunately the scenery there is fantastic, and we saw some wildlife from the bus as well.

Map of Torres del Paine National Park
Map of Torres del Paine National Park
Bus Ride in Torres del Paine
Bus Ride in Torres del Paine

The bus took us to a cafeteria and ferry base at the end of Lago Pehoe. From there we hiked first to a waterfall, then to a view of Los Cuernos (the horns) mountain, about two miles overall. The wind was crazy strong in a few places, sometimes making it difficult to stand up, but fortunately the wind would lessen as soon as you turned a corner or got below the crest of a hill. We saw a very relaxed guanaco grazing near the start of the trail.

Guanaco in Torres del Paine National Park
Guanaco in Torres del Paine National Park
Hikers and guanaco
Hikers and guanaco

Then we got to the waterfall overlook.

Salto Grande
Salto Grande
Hiking toward Mirador Cuenos (Los Cuernos view)
Hiking toward Mirador Cuenos (Los Cuernos view)

About a decade earlier there had been a forest fire several miles away, but with the wind being so strong the fire whipped through a large part of the Park before anything could be done about it. Only a few trees in this area survived.

Burned trees on Mirador Cuernos trail
Burned trees on Mirador Cuernos trail

The trail ends with this view.

Los Cuernos above Lago Nordensköld
Los Cuernos above Lago Nordensköld

Once back in the bus we stopped for photos at a bridge on the way back to the hotel because the clouds were clearing and the mountain tops were being revealed more.

Los Cuernos over Rio Paine
Los Cuernos over Rio Paine

Back at the hotel Julie and I walked down to the beach and walked around looking for birds but did not have much luck, maybe because it was so windy. The late afternoon light was beautiful on the mountains, though.

Late afternoon lighting, Lago Grey
Late afternoon lighting, Lago Grey

We gathered in the hotel bar before dinner to have a toast to our last night in Torres del Paine N.P. with some Pisco Sours, then our lamb dinner at the hotel restaurant came with Calafate Sours.

We finished a few Pisco Sours
We finished a few Pisco Sours

Between the drinks and the sinus issues I was having I was really tired at the end of the day.