InsideLineMC Brian's Blog

Bus Ride to Chile — Patagonia 2024

An early start for a long day on the bus, we departed at 7:15. We drove for a while, then as the sun began to rise we also began rising out of the big valley containing Lake Argentino and El Calafate. Even a few hundred feet higher got us into frost and then light snow on the ground.

Frosty morning on the Patagonian Steppe
Frosty morning on the Patagonian Steppe - Andes in the background

The first group of guanacos spotted from the bus had our tour members excited, but after half an hour or so we realized they are all over certain parts of the landscape. This large province has about thirty thousand people and three million guanacos.

The Patagonian Steppe goes on and on, gently rising and falling in the rain shadow of the Andes. Our local guide, Gorry, talked for quite a while about the history, politics, and economy of Argentina. I’d read some of this before coming on the tour, but he had interesting perspectives and opinions. Argentina’s new president, Javier Milei, is strongly disliked by the tour guides, but the “more of the same” candidates offered by the main political parties were not what most people wanted. It will be interesting to see if Milei can actually get rid of some of the corruption and stasis before running the country into the ground and/or collapsing the economy entirely by extracting all the wealth for the rich.

Morning on the Patagonian Steppe
Morning on the Patagonian Steppe

We also got a lesson about mate (“mah-tay”) and Yerba mate. Drinking mate is an important tradition and cultural identity practice in much of Argentina. We saw a number of people with their mate cups and a thermos of hot water in various places on our tour, and later we would visit the Guaraní people who first began making tea with this plant.

We eventually found a mate (the gourd used as a mug) and a filter-tipped straw that we liked to bring home along with some Yerba Mate.

Our Yerba Mate Souvenir
Our Yerba Mate Souvenir

After driving for a couple hours south from El Calafate we left the paved highway of Ruta 40 to get to Chile a shorter way. We drove eight or so miles on a gravel road in poor condition to the Argentina border station where we checked out.

Shortcut border crossing road
Shortcut border crossing road
Leaving Argentina
Leaving Argentina

Then we drove about six more miles of gravel to the Chile border station. Here our passports were stamped and our carry-on luggage was scanned for forbidden fruits, vegetables, or plants. The bus that would take us around Chile was just beyond the gate, but we couldn’t walk to it - we had to get back in our Argentina bus, drive a hundred feet, then switch to the other bus. The pleasant news was that the road in Chile was paved. We also bid farewell to Gorry and met our new local guide, Kris.

Chile entry station
Chile entry station - our Chile bus, Karina, standing by in the distance
Funky souvenir shop El Ovejero in Cerro Castillo
Funky souvenir shop El Ovejero (The Shepherd) in Cerro Castillo

There is a souvenir store nearby that we stopped in, which also provided a bathroom break. Then we took our new bus a short distance to the tiny town of Cerro Castillo and the Hotel Estancia El Ovejero Patagónico restaurant where we had lunch.

Half the town of Cerro Castillo
Half the town of Cerro Castillo
Lunch at Hotel Estancia El Ovejero Patagónico in Cerro Castillo
Lunch at Hotel Estancia El Ovejero Patagónico in Cerro Castillo
En route to Torres del Paine
En route to Torres del Paine "Ruta del Fin del Mundo" means "Route of the End of the World"

We drove a ways on the highway and stopped several times. Once for a group of condors that were circling and feeding on something we couldn’t quite see, then for guanacos including a really big group that was on the move, then for views of the mountains and lakes.

Condors in Chile
Condors in Chile
Lago Sarmiento de Gamboa, nearing Torres del Paine National Park
Lago Sarmiento de Gamboa, nearing Torres del Paine National Park
Laguna Amarga, nearing Torres del Paine National Park
Laguna Amarga, nearing Torres del Paine National Park

We entered the Torres del Paine National Park. Clouds were clinging to the mountains but we could still see most of the namesake towers. We stopped at a few places in the park to take photos.

Torres del Paine
Torres del Paine (the torres (towers) are sort of visible to the right of the mountain in the foreground)
Nice looking brush rig in Torres del Paine National Park
Nice looking brush rig in Torres del Paine National Park
Guanaco in Torres del Paine National Park
Guanaco in Torres del Paine National Park

I was a little surprised that the only roads through this famous National Park are narrow gravel roads, with washboard in a lot of places.

Washboard road thru Torres del Paine National Park
Washboard road thru Torres del Paine National Park

We met another bus while traversing a fairly steep hillside. Javier, our bus driver, really got to practice his close-quarters maneuvering to get by without letting us slip over the edge.

Passing another bus on the narrow road through Torres del Paine National Park
Passing another bus on the narrow road through Torres del Paine National Park

More photo stops.

A normal windy day in Torres del Paine National Park
A normal windy day in Torres del Paine National Park
Los Cuernos, Torres del Paine National Park
Los Cuernos, Torres del Paine National Park

Eventually we arrived at Hotel Lago Grey, our home for two nights, around six thirty – eleven hours after we started. It was a long day on the bus, but we made a lot of interesting stops and we learned a lot from our local guides.

Lago Grey Hotel
Lago Grey Hotel
View from our room at Lago Grey Hotel
View from our room at Lago Grey Hotel

The hotel is made up of several buildings with eight to ten rooms each.

Lago Grey Hotel
Lago Grey Hotel

I had been having a funny feeling in my throat for a couple days but that evening I really started feeling sick, with something happening in my sinuses. I made it through dinner and then went to bed.