InsideLineMC Brian's Blog

Whitehorse-Dawson Overland Trail — Alaska Cruise/Expedition 2019

Yet another early day, luggage out by 6:30, meet for departure at 7:45. We all went to Tim Hortons for breakfast. They were featuring some meatless “Beyond Sausage” breakfast items, so we tried a couple of those. It was indistinguishable from ‘real’ sausage for me, so I was impressed with that, but the apple fritter I ordered had no apple flavor. The “Apple Cinammon Fog” tea-based drink was quite tasty, though.

We boarded the bus at eight and headed north, first on the Alaska Highway, but we soon turned off onto the Yukon Highway, continuing to more-or-less follow the route of the Stampeders. We stopped at the Montague Roadhouse, one of several stops on the historic Whitehorse to Dawson Overland Trail, a system of stops along a road to allow travel and postal mail to move between Whitehorse and Dawson in the winter, when the river is frozen.

Montague Roadhouse
Montague Roadhouse
Whitehorse-Dawson Overland Trail sign
Whitehorse-Dawson Overland Trail sign

Then we stopped at a grocery/general store in Carmacks, another town on the Overland Trail.

We had lunch beside the Yukon River in Minto, a “town” which really just consists of a handful of structures, a couple of which are houses, the others part of an RV resort that contracts lunches with Holland America tours.

Lunch stop in Minto
Lunch stop in Minto

We stopped at an overlook of the Five Finger Rapids, a significant obstacle to river travel on the Yukon, then we stopped at a campground/cabins/restaurant/resort with a lot of whimsical stuff. We bought some Birch syrup there, which is supposed to be similar to Maple syrup, but not as sweet.

“Five Finger” rapids on Yukon River
“Five Finger” rapids on Yukon River

We had another stop overlooking the Tintina Trench, a valley formed by the shearing movement of continental plates.

Tintina Trench
Tintina Trench
Tintina Trench interpretive sign
Tintina Trench interpretive sign

Finally we arrived in Dawson. The Westmark Hotel here is much nicer than the one in Whitehorse, and the sun finally broke through the clouds.

Flowers in Dawson, Y.T.
Flowers in Dawson, Y.T.

Having started the day by introducing our sister-in-law and the boys to Tim Horton’s, we ended the day by introducing them to poutine. I think they liked it, but one of the boys has “problems” with the word poutine.

We walked around town in the evening and went to the Sourdough Bar to see their (in)famous Sour Toe Cocktail – a strange tradition that started with a toe amputated because of frostbite, the toe’s owner preserving the toe in some of the whiskey they were smuggling, the toe being discovered years later, and someone daring that person to drink that whiskey. Now almost 90,000 people have drunk a shot of whiskey with a desiccated amputated toe in the glass.

The Sour Toe Cocktail at the Sourdough Bar in Dawson
The Sour Toe Cocktail at the Sourdough Bar in Dawson

We finally went to bed around 11PM after the sun had finally sunk below the canyon wall, but while it was still fairly bright outside.